Michelin Stars

Michelin Stars

By: Elizabeth

We are coming to the end of our adventure! We left Slovenia and flew to the Dordogne region of France (10th country) by way of Portugal (9th country). We picked up a car and spent the night in the tiny the medieval town of Sarlat ready to begin our much-anticipated walking tour of the area along the Dordogne River. Together we’ve done a number of walking tours and thoroughly enjoyed them. This one was a little bit different. Our tour operator provides an app to follow and gives us specific directions and some land marks to follow the 8.5 mile course. But we got off course several times. Thankfully, Michael has a backup map app called Gaia that we used to navigate back to the starting point but it entailed walking on the main road dodging cars, inhaling car exhaust and taking us an extra 2.5 miles. As you might imagine, I was not a happy walker after the first day and the thought of another similar day didn’t thrill me.

This has just been part of our traveling experience, things don’t go as planned and the need to assess, re-group and make new plans to fit individual needs. As I did more research about the area I learned there were other things to do like canoeing, going to village markets, visiting caves and museums. While Michael was happy to hike everyday, I decided to venture out on my own and explore and do shorter walks in nature. Voila, being flexible while traveling goes a long way!

The Dordogne region in France is much sleepier than Paris and its surrounds or Provence, but it does provide lots of natural beauty and plenty of Michelin Star restaurants. One has to ask, “Can you ever get tired of foie gras?” That’s what this region is known for — foie gras. Duck and goose foie gras prepared in many unique ways with hopes you never get tired of eating it. Sprinkle in walnuts, goat cheese, some figs, an occasional chestnut purée and some wine from the region and you’ve got a picnic. It was tough, but we managed to eat at three Michelin Star restaurants! I took pictures of the food, but I don’t think they translate well to being there in person, fork in hand . . .

Michael completed most of the 60+ miles of the trek but did take one afternoon off to go canoeing. Who knew, but in a former life he was a Red Cross certified canoeist, so with him as “captain” we ran a 7+ mile section of the Dordogne River. Truth be told, the river is as calm as most backyard swimming pools, so his superior skills were never tested.

On Monday we made the drive back to the Toulouse airport for our penultimate plane trip, a short hop to Munich where we will fly home on Wednesday. We certainly did not plan it, but we arrived in the middle of Oktoberfest and our hotel is a short walk from this, the world’s original beer and folk festival. Neither of us are beer drinkers but we are heading over there to experience everything except the liter sized mugs of beer. Pics and commentary to follow. Counting our layover at the airport in Portugal and the three days we are spending in Germany we have now visited 11 countries in 79 days. It’s been a great adventure but we are both ready for the comforts, ease and familiarity of home.

I’m going to need to change the name our blog to 11counties90days!

 

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The World’s Largest . . .

The World’s Largest . . .

By: Michael with funny edits by Elizabeth

We did not realize until our arrival in the little town of Kobarid in the Soca Valley, that it is one of Slovenia’s most popular destinations for everything outdoors including whitewater rafting, kayaking, canyoning, hiking, zip lining, camping and hang gliding. Because of this, the area is full of (mostly) young people enjoying the adventures. It was very exciting for us to be around all that fun and celebration and beauty of nature. We rented a modern, fully equipped apartment that allowed us to “eat in” which is such a luxury after too many restaurant meals. Loved those mod purple suede swivel chairs. We embarked on a beautiful hike through the Soca valley crossing the Soca River on our way to another spectacular (ho hum!) waterfall, the Slap Kozjak.

Side note: We spent one afternoon doing laundry and going through all of our ‘things’ to pare down and send a big suitcase back to the states. We’re back to a carry-on and a backpack for ease at the end of this journey. It’s so nice to be ‘light’ while traveling.

We took off early on Wednesday morning to drive to the unbelievable Skocjan Caves. Wowsers!!! Neither of us have ever been spelunking (love that word!) before so we were completely blown away by the experience. The Skocjan Caves is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the largest underground canyon system in the world. The caves are more than two miles long and the largest cavern is more than 450’ high. At its lowest point it is more than 500’ below the surface. What an amazing experience walking through the cave which, of course, is dark and cold. The limestone formations and stalagmites formed by dripping water create a surreal environment that are awe inspiring. This has truly been one of the highlights of our trip to date. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside the cave so we don’t have any unworldly pics to share, only a few from outside the caves and one that I took of an impressive poster that I’m too embarrassed to share as my own.

From there we drove to Lipica, home of the largest Lippizanner stud farm in the world. The facility is home to more than 300 of these amazing white stallions. We enjoyed a self-guided tour of the farm where visitors are allowed access to the stables where you can actually make physical contact with them. Very cool. We also got to see a bunch of the recently born foals hanging out with their mamas. Incidentally, the foals are born chocolate brown and slowly loose their color as they age and begin to turn white (I know the feeling). So in a span of less than six hours we got to experience two of the world’s “largest” attractions. More blessings! Slovenia continues to impress and wow us on this trip!

From there we had a short drive to Piran, a bright, (but today, stormy) coastal city on the Adriatic Sea. We are staying in the center of town, right off a beautiful shiny white stoned square (not a plaza or piazza even though this part of Slovenia seems to have a lot of Italian influence) where no cars are allowed. Of course we drove through the square in our rental car to the horror of the locals, but one kind man patiently helped us exit our vehicle and we unloaded and schlepped up cobblestone streets to our B &B. (Google maps doesn’t understand ‘no car zones’). Our plans to hire e-bikes and ride to the salt pans of Croatia where cancelled due to an impending storm — just gives us more time to sort through pictures and write the blog. Piran is home for the next three nights before flying to where?? . . . . for the final leg of our travels.

 

 

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Our Eighth Country!

Our Eighth Country!

Collaboration by:  Elizabeth & Michael

Well the pictures don’t lie— Slovenia is beautiful. We drove from Italy to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, and did a foodie walking tour with history and highlights. Somehow I booked us a room at a more hostel-like accommodation— we knew right away something was up when we were clearly the oldest people in the lobby and there seemed to be a cool-edgy-grunge-like vibe going on. Plus, we weren’t carrying backpacks that towered a foot over our heads and hopefully we didn’t smell like we just finished hiking the John Muir trail. Oh well, it was for one night and we just mixed in with the grunge crowd and chalked it up to experience.

It’s a bit of an adjustment to arrive in Slovenia and be eating all of our meals out after all that delicious food in Italy. We were spoiled. But Slovenia is trying hard to win some of the tourist dollars that mostly go to the neighboring countries of Croatia and Italy. They are hard selling their wines, which are pretty darn good, their pumpkin seed oil, and their dairy products. But what they really have to offer are their people (who make a huge effort to speak good English and make you feel welcome) and the incredibly beautiful scenery of their country.

After a day in Ljubljana we drove to Bled (pronounced Blade). (Check out the beautiful like with an island church in the middle in the photos.) You can swim, SUP, row or take a boat to the island and visit the beautifully maintained Baroque church with functioning clock tower. We met up with two dear friends from Laguna Beach and shared the experience of taking a boat to the island, hiking to the Slap Savica waterfall and through the Vintgar Gorge.

Early this morning we said goodbye to our friends and continued our journey in Slovenia by driving through the Julian Alps. We stopped at the tourist information office in Kranjska Gora where we found an extraordinarily helpful woman who guided us to two delightful little lakes, Lago di Fusine, where we enjoyed a hike around both. As stated earlier, Slovenia is a spectacularly beautiful country, and we are having a wonderful time exploring the country by car and by foot. After a hearty lunch in Bovec we drove to our destination for the next two nights, a modern apartment in Kobarid. Tomorrow we plan a long hike through the Soca Valley exploring many historical sites from World War I and one of Slovenia’s most picturesque waterfalls, the Veliki Kozjak.

 

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Eating again?

Eating again?

By:  Elizabeth

On our second day in Bologna guess what we did? It’s pretty obvious if you read the prior blog post. We ate. One of my favorite things to do when arriving in a new city is to book a tour. It really gives us a chance to walk around the area and orient ourselves with an experienced guide. Often times the guide will share their secret haunts and stories about the history and architecture.

Our tour was a walking foodie tour to various shops and restaurants to learn more about the food of Bologna— aside from bologna! We saw how labor intensive it is to make tortellini stuffed with beef and sausage. We learned that the bigger tortelloni are traditionally stuffed with spinach and ricotta. We tried all the different ways Parma is cured along side of delicious Parmesan Reggiano and then tasted the traditional pasta bolognese. Our tastes were paired with the traditional wines of the Emilia Romagna region. Afterwards we did a progressive tasting of aged Balsamic Vinegars (oldest one we tasted had been aged 25 years) that was quite impressive in their dense fruit, herby complexity, woodsy notes and chocolate undertones (ha, ha, just wondering if you are paying attention). To end our tour we stopped and had two scoops of? You guessed it, gelato! I had a scoop of super dense chocolate and coconut while Michael had café chip. Yummy!

The following day took us on a short flight to Mallorca, Spain for our long-time friends’ son’s wedding. I noticed I needed to transition from my broken Italian to my broken Spanish, neither of which is pretty but we got by. I am so in awe of Europeans that speak several languages fluently! The wedding was absolutely beautiful, magical really! It was great to see friends and socialize and speak English in complete sentences. This is one incidence where the pictures really tell a better story than what I could possibly describe in words!

There we ate some more!

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The Fat One!

The Fat One!

By:  Elizabeth

We arrived in Bologna by train from Padua, it just took an hour. Bologna is our jumping off point for our next country tomorrow. That will bring us to seven! Not many tourist have the city of Bologna on their Italy bucket list, but we were familiar with it from watching Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy Series. If you’re into good food, have plans to visit Italy and looking are for inspiration, I’d recommend the series and Bologna.

Bologna is Italy’s ‘The Fat One’ (La Grassa) and is also known as the food capital of Italy. Who knew? We discovered this last night when we had one of the best food experiences we’ve had so far. Cheese gelato? Yummy! Prosciutto di Parma (we call it ham) is King here in Bologna. I know you thought it was bologna, right? I’ve never seen so many rear haunches of pig hanging in butcher’s windows in my life. And then there is the myriad number of ways it’s cured, cut and served. Michael had pig cheeks for dinner and I had the Osso Buco with bone marrow in a saffron sauce — we cooed the whole time.

Thankfully, prior to dinner we had taken the tourist train up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca and walked down the infamous Portico, a 3.8 km monumental roofed arcade (Portico di San Luca) consisting of 666 arches. It is the longest continuous covered walkway in the world. Built from 1674–1793, it was meant to protect the icon (Madonna) as she was paraded up the hill. A yearly procession from the Cathedral of San Pietro in the center of Bologna to the Sanctuary travels along this path. Our Apple health tracking app let us know we walked seven miles and gave us license to stuff ourselves.

I’m stuffed . . . again!

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Vivaldi and Biennale

Vivaldi and Biennale

By:  Elizabeth

A huge benefit of having an extended stay in Italy is we don’t feel the need to ‘fit it all in’ in a condensed period of time. It’s been wonderful to take the train in and spend the night in Venice, take in some of the many and varied offerings and then come back to our cozy and quiet apartment to recharge and gear up for another hit of stimulation from the plethora of of sights, sounds and smells that fill the Italian Riviera.

Several nights ago took us to a beautiful gothic building in Venice to listen to I Musici Veneziani where a vibrant chamber orchestra performed Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. The musicians where dressed in early 1700-period costumes to add to the festivities of the evening, which was truly enchanting. The next day we started out early to visit the infamously famous Venetian Art Festival — Biennale.

In case you’re not familiar with it— the Venice Biennale (La Biennale di Venezia) is an international cultural exhibition hosted annually in Venice by the Biennale Foundation. It has been organized every year since 1895, and is the oldest of its kind. It was closed during World War I and II and also took a hiatus for covid. Biennale alternates every second year between art and architecture (hence the name Biennale). Besides art, there are many other events organized by the foundation during this time including theatre, music, and dance. The Venice Film Festival takes place at the Lido.

We started at the first venue with the biggest pavilion, the Giardini, set in a beautiful park and also where the international pavilions are located. Countries from all over the world feature their artists in these architecturally representative buildings. [The Russian Pavilion was dubiously closed this year] We then ventured to the second largest venue and the original site, Arsendale, had a delicious lunch, and viewed the show there. One of the most interesting things that stood out for me was how much of the art was audio visual with artists making and sharing stories, movies and photography. Many of the statements were about controversial social and political events. I guess there is nothing new here, just the art form artists are now using to get thoughts, ideas, expressions and opinions across. This year majority of the artists in this years exhibition are women and gender non-conforming. I highly recommend you reading the 2022 vision statement that I have photographed and included below to get a sense of the world view of artist and curators during these important times, and then enjoy the art!

In other news we’ve learned that it’s just not acceptable to live in Italy and have a last name that doesn’t have at least four vowels. Italians depend on vowels in all their words, so to make it easy on them we’ve changed our name to Gosselini. It makes it so much easier to make reservations!

Sidebar: Many of you have asked about the covid situation here in Italy. It’s difficult for us to judge as we aren’t really socializing with anyone. It is an enforced requirement for everyone to wear a mask while traveling on any type of public transportation. Because we have a car we minimize any bus travel. We’ve been eating outside whenever that’s available and it is available most of the time. Also, some establishments require you to wear a mask and we do see people wearing them in supermarkets, drug stores, hair and nail salons. We’ve tried to figure out what the Italian health department reports but . . . It’s all in Italian! So far, we’ve stayed healthy.

Ciao

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